All Chef Must Train Here’: Modest Turkish Dining Spot Ranks Fourth on List of London’s Best Dining Destinations.
When compiling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate familiar high-end venues. However, tucked near the top among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.
An Surprise Recognition
The little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. This honour has made the family completely surprised.
“I am completely shocked,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their small restaurant securing such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.
The Appeal of Simplicity
This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.
The Signature Creation: Tantuni
However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.
It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.
It is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.
Other Than the Classic Tantuni
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, giving it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly profile.
Surpassing the Stars
Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.
While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can start at many times that price.
A Creed of Warmth
It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.
“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”
This philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.
A Path of Dedication
In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.
A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.
“Our mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.
An Recognition for the People
The restaurant’s success is set to resonate outside its own walls. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this gastronomic achievement.